{The Rite Stuff} Bulldog Wabash Discharge-dyed Pullover Work Shirt (Sulfur Black)

Straight out of Rite Stuff research comes a shirt pattern I found in a photo postcard and decided to recreate: I call it the Bulldog Work Shirt.

The pattern is one I found on a workman in a 1920s postcard in my personal collection, a pullover (referred to as a ‘closed front’ shirt at the time) Stifel fabric work shirt. This is consistent with the 1920s, when most work shirts were still made as pullover shirts.

For the Bulldog I chose a selvedge discharge-dyed dot stripe wabash fabric, milled in Japan, in both indigo and black sulfur dye in a versatile, year-round 5 oz weight. Both the indigo and sulfur fabrics used will fade with washing and wear so you can enjoy the unique aging characteristics your garment takes on.

Wabash fabric was popular with both railroaders and regular working men for its neat appearance and hard-wearing nature. Why was it called wabash? Read my blog post on the subject to find out. “Bull Dog” was the name of Stifel’s wabash fabric used in children’s overalls as well a now-defunct overall manufacturer from Canada that used Stifel fabric.

The Bulldog Work Shirt is cut roomy and full as a pullover needs to be in order to easily go on and off. The chest is generous, as are the sleeves, cuff, and the extra length ensures it stays tucked in, no tails bobbing out when you put your arms up. 

Double-row chainstitching at principle seams means no tearing, a high, thin double back yoke, and a period-correct extension neck band (or “chinstrap”) and collar length and shape round out the shirt. One chest pocket holds your valuables. The Japanese-made, star-shaped urea buttons are reproductions of 1920s originals as well. Note also the triangle stitching on the collar, pocket, and both chest and sleeve plackets.

Further down you’ll find a workers’ tag as well as selvedge gussets. And as always, the Bulldog Work Shirt is made in Japan by John Lofgren Co. to their exacting standards of both quality and ethical working conditions.

Sizing: Model (yours truly) is 180cm/5’11”, 73kg/160lbs and is wearing Medium. If you have the Heracles (second run) or Atlas, take the same size in the Bulldog as those shirts.

Features:

-New, straighter cut

-5.7 oz. sulfur-dyed selvedge discharge-printed wabash chambray fabric, 100% cotton, milled, dyed, and printed in Japan 

-100% cotton stitching

-Double chainstitching on all main seams

-Period-correct collar and extension neckband, or “chinstrap”

-Urea star-pattern buttons reproduced from 1920s originals, made in Japan

-Closed front, or pullover/popover, style

-Selvedge placket and reinforced gussets 

-Triangle stitching on collar, pocket, chest and faced sleeve plackets

-Garment workers’ tag, 100% cotton, made and printed in Japan 

-Made in Japan 

-Hang tags printed in USA

Size Chart:

Centimeters

Inches